Hello again, and welcome back! Were you waiting in anticipation for this post? Well, sorry to have kept you waiting so long. The Volks USA staff was very busy last week with the release of the Home Town Dolpa Kyoto 6 Regular Items, some of which are still available! But anyways, we did not forget about the fourth and final post of Assembling Your MSD. Actually, I don’t think we could forget because this may be the biggest post we’ve posted yet!
In this post, we are going to show you how to paint the face, add eyelashes, insert the eyes, attach the wig, and attach the head to the body! We have a lot to cover, so without further ado, let’s begin.
Items used and needed for the following lessons:
-ZM Make Pen
-ZM Paper Palette
-ZM Face Painting Brush 05 and ZM Face Painting Brush 07 (OR preferred brush sizes)
-ZM Acrylics- Basic Color Set*
-ZM Acrylics- Make Set*
-ZM Make Pastel/Base Makeup Color (OR preferred color set)
-Tamiya Finishing Abrasives P400
-ZM Finishing Powder Spray UV-Cut
-Tamiya X-22 Gloss (Optional)
-Tamiya X-20A Acrylic Thinner (Optional)
-Mr. Cotton Swab OR other cotton swab (Optional)
-Eyelashes/ WT1/ Light Brown OR preferred color and type (Optional)
-Volks Tweezer/ Bent Type (Optional)
-Zokei-mura Instant Dry Glue OR white craft glue (Optional)
-Dollfie Scissors for Eyelashes- Gold OR small scissor (Optional)
-Mineshima Carving Knife TM-102 (Optional)
-Dollfie Stringing Tool for Head Parts
-Toothpick (Optional)
-A Box of Tissues
-A Cup of Water
*For the Acrylic Paint Sets, it is recommended that you have both; however, you only need one set that is suitable for your needs. While the ZM Acrylics- Make Set has only brown and flesh colored tones, the ZM Acrylics- Basic Color Set has equally important colors such as black, red, and white. So, please use your best judgment when choosing a set to work with, or just buy both!
Before you begin painting your MSD, it is good to have at least some kind of idea of how you want him or her to look. Age and personality are some of the things you may want to think about when creating an image for your MSD. The image you create for your MSD will greatly help you through the painting process. And, after you have completed painting your doll, you will probably be happier with the end result, regardless or your painting skill, if your doll conveys the image you were after.

Here's a peek at the finished Myu! While painting, Sayuri had a very clear image of a young, sweet and gentle girl. And I think Myu conveys that, don't you?
The tutorial follows below!
Step 1 (not pictured): If you haven’t already, take your MSD head out of its packaging and remove the head cap. Then, clean the head off by rinsing it in water. Use tissues afterwards to dry off the head.
Step 2 (optional): Coat the face with a layer of ZM Finishing Powder Spray. To do this, hold the can away from the head about 8-10inches and spray in short bursts, rotating the head as you do so. But, before you begin spraying, make sure you shake the ZM Finishing Powder Spray well and that you using it in a well ventilated area, preferably outside.
Spraying a layer of coating first will help the paint and pastel stick better, but doing so is purely optional. Still, you will want to know how to use the ZM Finishing Powder Spray for uses in future Steps.
Step 3: Use the ZM Make Pen to draw the eyebrows’ shape. This shape will be your guide for painting, so try drawing as neatly as possible. If you chose to coat the face first from Step 2, make sure that the coating is completely dry before using the Make Pen.
We start with the eyebrows first because they will determine the overall facial expression. Also, the eyebrows can be the most difficult to do, so it is better to fix any mistakes sooner rather than later. If you do not like the eyebrows you have drawn or made a mistake, you can easily erase the Make Pen with water! Just use a wet tissue or a Mr. Cotton Swab to wipe away any unwanted markings.
Tips on eyebrow shape: For boys, a thick and angled eyebrow is the most common. Also, the angled eyebrow is good for creating a more serious, or angry look. For girls, a thin and softly arched eyebrow, that is proportionally spaced apart, is a good brow for a gentle and sweet look. There is also the downward brow for sad and solemn expressions, and the high arched brow for an attentive look, both suitable for boys and girls.
Step 4-1: Before we get into painting, you should consider doing the following, especially if this is your first time painting an SD or have not had much experience doing so. For the following painting demonstration, Sayuri has chosen to do a draft first. Draft painting should be done in a very light brown or grey color, depending on the final color usage. Painting a draft first will allow you practice and an overview of how the end result will be. Also, painting a draft first allows you to add layers of color more easily later, allowing you to achieve the perfect color and look. Otherwise, if you are comfortable with painting the process, you may skip the draft and begin painting with the desired/final colors.
Now, for those of you who are completely new to painting, this Step is also a good way for you to learn how to mix paints! As you can see from the picture, you only need to use a dab of paint and thinner, which is the bottle of clear liquid that is included in the Acrylic Paint Sets. To mix any two or more colors, use a damp brush to take a little bit of paint from each color and begin mixing them into one color separately, as Sayuri is doing in the photo. As you mix, add thinner and more color as needed. Also, make sure that you are mixing your paints on the proper side of the Paper Palette, which is the smoother and shinier side. It may seem obvious, but I know from personal experience that that using the wrong side of the Paper Palette is bad for mixing paints!
Step 4-2: Using a small brush and a little bit of paint, begin painting the eyebrows in strokes along the Make Pen marking. If you make a mistake, you can use a little bit of thinner on a Mr. Cotton Swab or small cotton swab to wipe away any paint mistakes.
By painting in strokes, you are creating the individual hairs that make up the eyebrow. For the best results, you will want your brush strokes close together and leaning towards one direction, from the inner of the brow line to the outer. Afterwards, you can add any straight of crossed strokes if you’d like for a bit more realism.
Painting the eyebrows can be the most difficult part of painting an SD face, and may take some practice. But, to make painting this fine detail a little easier, try using your ring and pinky fingers to brace the face as you use the paint brush, just as Sayuri is doing in the above picture. Using this technique, should help steady your hand and give you better stroke control.
Tips for eyebrow color: When choosing an eyebrow color, you will want to think about what kind of wigs your MSD will be wearing. If you plan on sticking to one wig or wig color, than matching the eyebrows to that color is suitable. But, if you plan on changing the wigs around, then a medium brown is a more suitable color choice for the eyebrows.
For Myu, Sayuri chose a medium brown color for the eyebrows, in which she painted a draft first using a light brown. If you wanted your eyebrows to be black, for example, then you would want to use a light grey as your draft color and so on.
Step 5: After the eyebrows, then paint the eyelid crease and upper eye line. And as you can see, Sayuri chose to paint a draft first in light brown, since her final color will be a darker brown. Also during this Step, you can paint on upper eyelashes if you’d like. Painting upper eyelashes can be a good alternative if you do not wish to add synthetic lashes on later, as demonstrated in Step 11.
Tips for eyelid crease color: For the eyelid crease, the most common color to use is a soft brown because it is a very neutral and subtle color. You can use another color if you’d like, but you will want to use a color that will look natural in comparison to the surrounding eye area. For example, if you are planning to add pink eye shadow later, then you may want to paint the eyelid crease a little darker variation of the pink eye shadow.
Tips for eye line color and shape: Depending on the look you are going for, you can choose any color you want for the eye line. If you want a more mature look, a darker color and thicker eye line will achieve this look. If you want a younger look, then a lighter color and thinner eye line is more suitable.
Also, the eye line’s shape can determine the expression and character of a doll. As you can see, in the picture above, Sayuri chose to paint an eye line that slightly curves down at the ends of the eye, near the temple. This curve creates a softer image, whereas an upward curvature will create a stronger image.
Step 6: Next, paint the lower eye line, lower eyelashes, and frown lines. To paint the lower lashes, paint in downward strokes from the lower eye line. You can paint as many lashes as you want and cover as much of the eye length as you want. For a more interesting look, you could even paint the lashes in various sizes, or you not paint any lashes at all. As you can see, in the picture above, Sayuri painted a draft of several lower lashes covering the eye from end to end.
As for frown lines, these are small lines that are painted at the end creases of the lips to help define an expression. Frown lines are meant to be noticeable, so you will want to paint your frown lines are painted in some variation of brown. As you may have noticed, Sayuri painted frown lines. But, as with most of this tutorial, frown lines are optional.
After you have completed this Step, and you are happy with the look, coat the face with a layer of ZM Finishing Powder Spray and let dry; doing this will help protect and seal in the paint.
Tips for eyelash color: Depending on the look you want, your doll’s eyelashes can be painted in any color. But, you may want to think about roughly matching the lower lashes with either the upper eyelashes, eyebrows, or both. If you want a more natural or subtle look, then roughly matching the lower lashes to the eyebrows is usually a good choice.
Tips for frown lines: Painting the frown lines in an upward curvature will create a happy or smiling expression. And by painting them in a downward curvature, you can create a serious, sad, or frowning expression. You could even create a smirk or scheming expression by painting one frown line up, and one down!
Step 7: If you have been following along with Sayuri, and painted a draft first, then now is your time to paint over the draft with a darker or final color. From here you can add as many layers as you need to achieve the right color and look. Of course, make sure that each layer of paint is dry before adding another layer on. As you can see above, Sayuri used a dark brown color as her final choice for the entire eye line and some of the lower lashes. She also darkened the eyelid crease, frown lines, and eyebrows, but, she is not quite done with the eyebrows yet.
Also, Sayuri did not choose to paint the lips, but if you wanted to paint the lips, this Step would be the best time to do it. Otherwise, you can shade them over with Make Pastels, which will be explained in Step 8-2.
Tips for lower lashes: To add more depth and realism, use a darker color to paint every other lash. You could even use the darker color to paint additional lashes that cross over the straight lashes, just as Sayuri did.
Step 8-1: Prepare your pastels for use. First, cut off a small strip of the Tamiya Finishing Abrasives P400. Then, take one or more of the Make Pastels and rub the chalk(s) over the Abrasive until it becomes a fine powder, as shown in the picture above. To combine pastel colors, use a dry, large paint brush to transfer the pastels from the Abrasive paper to the Paper Palette and mix them from there.
Tips on pastel colors: For this demonstration, we have used the ZM Make Pastel/Base Makeup Color set, which is a great set for basic blushing. Sayuri used a combination of dark pink, orange, and dark brown from this set to create a dynamic and natural color. If you are looking for a more specific look, we also have a variety of other Make Pastel sets that may be more suited to your needs, such as the ZM Make Pastel/Point Makeup Color or ZM Make Pastel/Point Makeup No.4- Gothic&Lolita to name a few.
Step 8-2: After you have prepared your pastels, begin blushing the face. Now, how and where you want to blush is entirely up to you. However, there are some key areas you can blush to create a more life-like appearance which are the: forehead, temples, cheeks, and chin. Also, blushing these key areas will bring focus to the center of your doll’s face. In the picture above, Myu has already been blushed by Sayuri. Sayuri blushed all of the key areas, as well as the eye lids, eyebrows, lower lashes and lips.
And, once you have finished blushing the face, spray another coat of the ZM Finishing Powder Spray and let dry.
Tips for blushing (applying pastels): Applying the pastels to the face, blushing, is very easy to do. However, there are a variety of ways to do it, so let’s learn a few techniques from Sayuri!
Here:

Sayuri used a large, dry brush to apply some pastel to the eye lids. She also added a bit more shadow to darken the ends of the eye lids, towards the temples, for a bit more depth. A dry brush is good to use in small spaces. Also, it is good for applying a light layer of pastel since it can not hold as much color as the following tools.
Also:

You could use a Mr. Cotton Swab, or other swab, to blush small spaces, just as Sayuri is doing to the lips. The cotton swab can hold a lot of color, so you may want to blot the pastel on first, and then blend it in. Also, another good tool alternative is the Tamiya Weathering Sponge-Fine, which is reusable- just make sure to wash it and dry it out before using a new color.
And here:

Sayuri used facial tissue to blush the large areas such as the forehead and cheeks. To make the tissue stronger and more manageable, fold it into a small square before using it. The tissue can hold a lot of color, so you will want to use it by lightly blotting the pastel onto the desired area first, then by blending it in with a side-to-side or circular motion.
Step 9 (Optional): After blushing and coating the face, add any last minute touch ups, if you’d like. In the picture above, Sayuri is painting on some darker eyebrow hairs.
She also decided to add a layer of pink pastel to the cheeks:

And an inner bottom eyelid, and vertical lips lines:

Painting an inner bottom eyelid, adds a very realistic touch as it mimics the natural pink of a human’s inner eyelid. And, by painting vertical lines onto the lips, you can further create a realistic look.
Vertical lip lines can be painted in any color but should complement the overall lip color. Also, the color of the vertical lip lines will contrast the brightness of the lips’ color. Sayuri, for example, painted the vertical lips lines a darker pink than the lips’ original pastel color, which in result made the overall lip color appear darker. If Sayuri had painted lighter pink, or white vertical lip lines, then her overall lip color would appear lighter and so forth.
Of course, all of the above is optional. But, if you followed and completed this Step, then spray one last layer of ZM Finishing Powder Spray onto the face, and give yourself a pat on the back because you are done!
Step 10 (optional): So, you finished, but you could add one more special touch. And that special touch is Gloss!
Just use a paint brush to apply Tamiya X-22 Gloss to the lips or eye area! If you want a high shine, apply more than one coat of Gloss. Or, if you want a low shine, dilute the Gloss by mixing it with the Tamiya X-20A Acrylic Thinner on a Paper Palette. And, If you want a little color or shimmer, mix some ZM Shine Pearl or fine powder pastel with Gloss on a Paper Palette and apply.
The Tamiya X-22 Gloss does not need to be coated with the ZM Finishing Powder Spray, so after you have completed this Step, you are finally finished. Of course, there are more Steps ahead, but those will be much easier. Onward!
Step 11 (Optional): Eyelashes are optional, but are a great add on to your MSD and can achieve an even more realistic look. There are many Eyelashes to choose from, but for Myu we have chosen the WT1/Light Brown.
You will want to attach one eyelash at a time, so first use your Volks Bent Tweezers to carefully pull the eyelash from its packaging, but be careful as it is very sticky!

Then, insert the eyelash in through the eyehole, from the front of head, to determine if the eyelash width is appropriate. If the eyelash is too wide, cut off the protruding end using the Dollfie Eyelash Scissors or other small scissor. Once you have adjusted the eyelash width, set it aside. Also, if you feel that the eyelash length is too long, you can trim it down. If you want all of the lashes to be one length you can cut the lashes across horizontally or if you want a more natural look you can trim them vertically, cutting the lashes to different lengths.

Next, add a dab of Zoukei-mura Instant Dry Glue, or white craft glue to the inside of your MSD’s eye well and spread the glue across with a toothpick.

After applying the glue, insert the eyelash, just as you did before, and attach it onto the glue. Use your toothpick afterwards to secure the eyelash on to the glue and eye well. In addition, you could also use the toothpick to add a bit more glue over the eyelash. Once the eyelash is secure, then repeat the process to insert the second eyelash.

Tips for eyelash placement: As demonstrated in this Step, Sayuri chose to insert the eyelashes in a downward position. A downward position is great for both boys and girls, but will shadow some of the eye. If you want a more wide eyed look, or very feminine look, attach the eyelashes a bit more forward towards the upper eyelid to achieve a more curled eyelash.
Step 12: Now, it’s time to insert the eyes! If you chose to do Step 11, then make sure that the Eyelashes are completely dry before inserting the eyes.
Before you begin, you will want to decide the position of the eyes. You can either place the eyes looking up, to the side, or forward. Sayuri positioned Myu’s eyes looking forward; and for a more natural look, she adjusted the eyes so that pupil slightly reaches the upper eye line. Once you have decided on an eye position, then you are ready to begin.
Included with your MSD Kit is a round container of Grey Eye Putty. To start, take a small piece of the Eye Putty out and roll it into a ball between your fingers. Then, take the Eye Putty ball and push it down into the bottom of the eye well from the back of the head.

Next, take one of the Acrylic Eyes and place it onto the Eye Putty, like this:

Once the eye is placed onto the Eye Putty, then adjust the eye by moving it to the desired position. Looking at your MSD’s face while adjusting will help you better position the eye. Also, make sure that no Eye Putty is showing or coming out of the Eye from the front side!
If you feel that the eye is too bulky inside of the head, you can always detach half of the eye by using your fingernail and fingers to separate and pull the two halves apart like this:

After you have positioned the eye, take more Eye Putty out and roll it into a thick, noodle like shape between your fingers. Then, place the elongated Eye Putty around the eye as pictured here:

Use your finger to pack the Eye Putty into the eye well. Or, you can use a small tool such as the Mineshima Carving Knife TM-102, which can make packing easier. Once you have secured the eyes in, check them from the front again to make sure they are positioned correctly and that no Eye Putty is showing or sticking out.
Step 13: After attaching the eyes, it is then time to attach the head! Place the head onto the neck, as pictured above. But, make sure that the neck’s S-hook is positioned vertical to the head first.
Next, using your Dollfie Stringing Tool for Head Parts, grab onto the S-hook and pull up and out, turning horizontally as you do. Then, rest the S-hook onto the horizontal notches on the inside of the head.

Step 14: Once you have attached the head onto the body, attach the head cap onto the head. If you have a Renewal MSD Assembly Kit, attaching the head cap is easy and self explanatory since the head cap is magnetic. But, if you have an Older Version MSD Assembly Kit, you will need to do the following.
First, take the rubber band that was included with your Assembly kit and pass it through the hole inside the head cap.

Then attach both sides of the rubber band loop to the hook at the rim of head cap. Doing this should give the effect of 4 rubber bands (1 crossed pair and 1 parallel pair) as pictured below.

And lastly, attach the entire rubber band bulk onto the S-hook inside the head. But, please be careful not to get your fingers caught between the head and head cap, as the tension could be tight!
Step 15: The last and final Step to assembling your MSD is to attach the wig. Attaching the wig is fairly easy to do, but if you are having troubles, this Step will help.
First, gently stretch out the elastic cap of the wig and loosely place it over the forehead and head, as pictured above. Then, use your thumb to firmly hold the front of the wig in place while you stretch the rest of the wig over the back of the head. Once the wig is on, you can then make any adjustments by carefully sliding the wig. If you feel that the wig is too big, or loose, you can use some Doll Wig Stopper/SD Pitatto to hold the wig in place.
After Step 15, you are finally done with Assembling your MSD Kit! It may have a taken you a while to do it, but you did it! And hopefully you created an MSD that is truly unique and special to you. Now go and show your boy or girl off to the world! Just, don’t forget to dress them before you do! And while you’re at it, send us some pictures! We’d love to display them in our showroom scrapbook.
As always, we had fun guiding you through this tutorial and we hope you were able to follow along.

Tags: MSD Assembly, Tutorials















